Best slab climbing reddit. And yes we are scared of falling.
Best slab climbing reddit I climb much harder on overhung routes vs slab, and part of that discrepancy is down to my technique I believe - specifically footwork. Routes here aren't too bad, Clear Creek is pretty soft on it's ratings so 5. The most terrifying climbing experience of my life has been run-out slab in France. Nov 22, 2019 · Hard to find any truly pure slab climbs at the grades I climb at, but Islivig Direct (HS 4b) comes pretty close - the best pitch is a cracked in a slab but the rest is mainly slabs. also been fortunate to not have ever taken a whipper on a slab, but from what I understand you kinda "hop" backwards if its a small fall. REMEMBER OPSEC. Some gyms have powerful overhung climbing setters who set pretty easy slabs. Hey everyone. They excel mainly in steep climbing that is generally inaccessible to a beginner. 69K subscribers in the climbergirls community. Always feel good even when pasting on glassy quartzite and limestone. Shout out to properly sized Sportiva Skawamas. just play around. All pulling muscles tend to develop quite well in climbers. In terms of scarpa and la sportiva, look for XS grip 2 rubber with a thin or absent midsole. They are the best in class for their use case, sure, but that’s not gym bouldering. The home of Climbing on reddit. It’s mostly for slab climbing that involves standing up on tiny pebbles as well as generating as much friction from getting as much rubber on the rock as possible. I find it very therapeutic and a much better experience than big burly muscley climbs. The Moc and Rave are great for cracks and slab, the others will be better for bouldering and indoor climbing. I'll be laughing my ass off when they're getting the Elvis leg shake when they're 5' above their last piece on a "measly 5. Looks like there are more face climbing folks than I thought! Posted by u/jakedotclimbs - 702 votes and 75 comments Good footwork is just an extension of good body positioning, as you need to know how and where you can place your feet to find that best body position. Upgrading from my beginner shoes after a year of climbing and was wondering if anyone had experience with women's scarpa vapors. Do not post your command or name! Post all questions and discussion about recruiters, MEPS, the Delayed Entry Program, Enlisted Ratings, "A" Schools, Officer Candidate School, Boot Camp, and transferring to your first command in our sister subreddit, r/newtothenavy. 9s. 12a/b. Some gyms I climb a grade or 2 harder on overhung. I'm currently in this boat. As per title, I'm awful at climbing anything on an overhang (V4-6 on slab/vert, V3-4 on overhang). I currently use the scarpa vapor v’s which I’m happy with bc the have a relatively hard sole and wide toe-box but I’m wondering if there might be something better out there. If you are gym climbing, softer shoes are better. And once you get better with technique and movement, you’ll learn to use what when it’s needed. Outside slab shuts me As for slab shoes something softer is probably what you are looking for so you can smear better. If you want to wear your shoes for hours or climb a lot of slab, no need to get something with a more aggressive 294 votes, 42 comments. Context - I've been climbing for 5 years, at anything between V5 to V7 (indoor) depending on style. How important are legs for climbing and what are the best ways to train legs. But usually flat and stiff shoes are only good on vertical and slabby terrain where you stand on small footholds or if you need the support for long climbing. I have, at times, climbed 5. Also consider what you typically climb. Look at Kevin and Tommy on the Dawn Wall. 13. A sub for women and non-binary climbers and their allies Scan this QR code to download the app now. Truth. It'll happen some day, just hasn't yet. It takes time and money to make it to a gym or outside, but most people can usually do some exercises for free sometime throughout their day. r/ClimbingCircleJerk: Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour. don't tense up or you might catch an edge, flip over, or just plain old break something. It also often requires flexibility that many climbers (especially men) do not have, and won’t put in the effort to achieve. I've been climbing for about 6 months now. Still at that level of climbing you are probably not pushing down with your feet as much so you slip. None are super great at vertical edging but the instinct s might have the advantage. The UP Mocc is a great chill shoe and I've been in love with the rubber for 13 years. I believe this is the hardest slab in the UK - clocking in at 9a/5. explore range of motion and weight distribution by pivoting your feet. 9" slab route. The lighter session of Thursday was like an active recovery session. That's why you're told to trust your feet. One of the best routes I've done. Unparalleled Mocc for most general climbing and Sportiva Testarossa for hard climbing. it also depends on the type of move you are trying to do. It mostly depends on the problem, indoors I've always seen people going softer, especially with more and more comp style problems. Softer shoes allow you to smear on all the volumes and large textured holds in the gym. I’ve gone through dozens of shoes doing everything from alpine routes to V11 boulders, and would be fine with a pair of moderately broken-in Katana Velcros Its a preference thing. What worked best was Tuesday night strength, Thursday night mobility/balance and Saturday morning strength again. I had a few questions for those of you who love friction climbing. As for rope climbing, my home gym is bouldering only, so I just don't have a lot of access, but I do indoor rope climb maybe once a year. 468 votes, 33 comments. I prefer aggressive shoes even on face or slab climbing, but it's way more of a comfort preference. I do some lead climbing, but the majority of my climbing is bouldering in the gym, due to convenience. On certain granite slabs as long as you put your foot down hard and drop your heel you will stick, so finding the best balance and flow can be more important than the best foot hold. Indoor slabs often are so different in climbing style that people who don’t really engage with that style, probably won’t learn the fundamentals of it and thus never be good at it. I like it because I have adhd and usually a very loud and "busy" brain, climbing slab forces you to slow down, breath and be calm. 11 through 5. 11 and higher)? From my experience and advice I've been given the biggest thing with slab is mileage, no shortcuts. I get by primarily with passable technique and footwork and okay finger strength, none of which I seem to be able to transfer to climbing on anything worse than a shallow overhang. My street shoe size varies from 38-39 and I tried both size 38 and 39 at the store, with 38 being far too tight and 39 being quite Best slab style I've done, really enjoyed this one, but wasn't sure about how to finish, that's the best my monke brain had come up with really 🤷🏽♂️😂 Locked post. Good selection. Or check it out in the app stores Ive been climbing 20 or so years and I definitely think that my built was advantageous up to about 5. This is primarily a US Navy-centric subreddit, but all are welcome. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Mellow is definitely the best channel for watching cutting edge, mega hard outdoor climbing. That includes Lats, teres major, interscapular muscles. One tip that I use is to not always go for the best holds but go for the best balance. Action Movies & Series; Animated Movies & Series; Comedy Movies & Series; Crime, Mystery, & Thriller Movies & Series But I'll be downvoted to oblivion because I'm sure the army of reddit gumbies all think their low angle gym climbing is slab climbing. Thanks for your feedback Slab refers to both a type of wall, generally speaking a wall of less than 90 degrees, and the type of climbing you generally have on it. On an overhang / roof, you generally just need to straighten your body by cutting loose, and you're typically not as far off the ground. gg/6AfwT9jvP Finger strength (obvious), biceps (underclings), triceps (manteling, pressing moves), shoulders (wide moves, pressing moves, long reaches), chest (compression, pulling), back (pulling, core tension), front core (core tension, controlling swings and foot movement), hip flexors (high stepping), glutes/hamstrings (pulling with feet, heel hooks), quads (utilizing higher feet, slab climbing Should I be trying more hard climbs rather than spending I love slab. The XS edge is viable if it’s really thin edging slab but for pure friction it sucks unless it’s stupidly hot outside. I'm a petite climber at about 5'1 (F) and I find that my skill level on slab is miles above my skill level on anything else. simulate situations that are at the edge of your In all the old master of stone videos, everyone is climbing hard in those purple mythos. I'm looking for routes in the range of 5. Testarossas are incredible all around except for toe hooks. And so you're relying on friction. 1. One thing that can be helpful is paying attention to the goldilocks-type-slab positions that are excellent for practicing on. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Are aggressive shoes necessary for modern bouldering setting and comp climbing? I referenced a list of the best climbing shoes and thanks to the comments below figured that aggressive shoes will help keep my body close to the wall on overhangs. Either way, I agree. And as such the best shoe to wear most of the time on most less-than-vert granite is something like a TC Pro. Reply reply More replies More replies pryingtuna Had a rather hard slab problem today that I ended up pressuring my chin and cheek on an undercling. 370K subscribers in the bouldering community. when you find 'em. In my 20 years of climbing, ive rarely seen anyone climb as hard as i have without being about 9kg lighter. Join our discord here: https://discord. 10 Anasazi Lace Pinks because they feel better on my weird-ass feet, are a little cheaper, and are a little better for bouldering on overhung stuff. 10s climb like 5. I think climbing will develop strong back and biceps/forearms on its own, so it might be efficient to focus on "push" muscles like pushups, bench, and shoulder presses to both balance physique (prevent hunched climbers back and build chest that climbing doesn't) and build accessory strength that pairs well with climbing / prevents injury. Also what are some good goals to build up to like pistol squats, back sauats, calve raises and hamstring curls. I used to sell climbing shoes and often people look for “beginner” or “intermediate” shoes. A friend called me out for cheating, I was not offended and felt indifferent but I am curious what people think edit: wow, my 4am thoughts exploded. Couldn't find that same level of confidence in a more moderate shoe. two hands on the wall, one hand, no hands. Some setters are really good at slab and therefore set really hard sandbagged slab problems. Indoors there are no small footholds and no long climbs most climbing you will do is either steep or on volumes so soft and downturned. Bouldering Bobat is very entertaining and a good mix of both. TY Nowadays, gym culture has taken over and some people seem to have narrowed it down to different types of gym climbing, or indoor/outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. And yes we are scared of falling. Cordless and proud. Slab climbing is good for slab climbing technique. Steep climbing is good for steep technique. 337 votes, 50 comments. I’ve been climbing for about a year. Basically, on a slab, you're just pasting your foot against a flat surface (not on an edge like you do inside). . That’s like saying putting is better for your technique than a driving range in golf. Aaaand just enjoy the ride! If you like it, watch people climb on videos, technique videos can be your best friend (look up "Movement for climbers" or "Neil Gresham masterclass" on YouTube for example). Of course climbing is the best way to get better at climbing, but more climbing is not always an option. Imo the best slab shoe is the La Sportiva Speedster, followed by the Scarpa Drago if you define slab as mostly friction climbing like glaciated granite and discard credit-cart sized edges and cristals. I climb a little bit of everything, but I love slab, and end up spending probably 75 percent of my sessions on vertical or slab walls. I tried the TC pros for a bit and just went back to a more aggressive shoe. But if you are a new to climbing you’ll be using everything until you strengthen those unused muscles. It was the first pitch of a calm multipitch, but was 45 meters long. you name it. If you’re mostly climbing vertical/slab and the occasional overhang and want a soft shoe, solutions don’t really fit the bill as well as other shoes do. All of these work more or less depending on the initial positions you are pulling from and the position you are pulling to. Hi all, I’m excited to be getting into slab bouldering and would love shoe recommendations. I’d say some gyms I climb a grade or 2 harder on slab. I've recently started to seek out more and more slab climbs here in Squamish. The type of shoe you want is more based on style of climbing and personal preferences. If you're scared and don't put a lot of weight on them, then they slip off. I used to hate slab but have come to really dig the whole heady experience. Pretty expensive though, and I actually prefer the 5. But being relatively heavy, I definitely get pumped faster. More weight more friction. In my experience I felt like the edge of the shoe was kind of positioned under and behind my big toe which made slab and vert more difficult because I had to be extra aware of where the shoes edge was actually making contact with small footholds. Both the solutions and miuras are stiff shoes that let you toe in better and don't flex a lot. They’re designed for big wall trad where you’re foot jamming and need all day support / performance. 11 and definitely has made it harder past that. Thanks in advance! Edit: I’d also consider myself more beginner if that makes a difference in shoe advice. in slabs my footwork is good enough (due to climbing a loot of slabs in my youth and climbing in the slick swabian jura). I. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax Reddit iOS Reddit Android Rereddit Best Communities Grone #slab climbing Slab walls are generally more dangerous as you're not necessarily falling onto mats straight down - so be prepared to push yourself away from the wall when you fall. Fellow Colorado climbers, or others who have experience around here, can you recommend some slab SPORT (or mixed) climbs in the Front Range? I've exhausted the Clear Creek and Devil's Head markets. if you're going for a ride, relax and let the slid happen. You just have to learn to trust your feet and figure out how to find friction on the wall. Outdoor there are athletes that tend to change and adapt the shoe to the problem a lot ( like Aidan Roberts with Scarpa models) but there are still boulderers that stick more to one/two preferred model ( like Brooke Raboutou with the La Sportiva's Skwama or It's absolutely about how they fit your foot. My feet are quite low volume so they fill in this model best out of the ones I tried. New comments cannot be posted. My climbing shoe is the la sportiva solutions, downsized a fair amount - but I don't think this stop A lot of people really like the TC Pros for Yosemite because they were pretty much invented (successfully) for Yosemite. Climbing is a full body exercise and if your do any form of outdoor climbing, especially trad, you’ll be hiking a ton of gear out in what may be an especially grueling hike and have no energy left for the climb. It depends heavily on the gym and setters. My current shoes are rather curved/pointed and don’t feel great on the slab wall. All of my climbing buddies struggle extremely hard with slab and they're never surprised I can flash V4's that they can't even start. First, what shoe do you think is the best slab shoe? Secondly, what's your best tips on climbing hard slab (5. Slab will use more legs etc. If you dont like slabs, still climb slabs because they can teach you so so much, same with overhangs and other styles (all type of holds included). A few crags I've been to that I know are good are the High Wire Crag(Super crowded, amazing climbs though) and the Cat Slab(if you like 135 ft slab climbing). But if you want more indoor, Magnus is probably your guy. Break in is about ~90 hours of climbing, and then get them resoled with C4 rubber. Jul 24, 2021 · I find that the most prevalent climbing style on harder slabs, in most places I've been, is #2 - Smedging. All of that background to say If you had to recommend 1 shoe, you used every climbing session (2-4 times a week for me) for indoor bouldering what would it be? They’re great slab shoes when they’re dialed in - for versatility, size so your toes are barely pushed back but still 90% flat. e. in other words, the ones where falling is not frightening. i think that's a really important fact and i struggle a lot with it. If you define slabs as friction climbing witch mini edges, then the Instinct VSR is a really good shoe as it edges well enough and smears great. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Basically focus on slabs/boulders that dont require much strength, mobility/core exercises and sometimes endurance training (4x4s) on easier boulders. 14d.